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Valentini calls his, ???fusion??? pizzas, though his ???Italian Perdition??? ($12) is reasonably classic: fennel-heavy Italian sausage, anchovies, San Marzano tomato sauce and melted mozzarella???all on a nicely irregular crust, edges burned brown by the brick electric oven. ???Good as this is,??? said my friend, ???the crust is the best part.???Valentini went wild on his other recipes.
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