. . . "By Janice Law HAVANA ??? As evening pedestrians, we stepped cautiously around and into alarmingly large holes packing nearly ink-black downtown streets, lit only every other block or so with the dimmest of lights.As night bus passengers, we marveled how our driver navigated the same areas where vehicles, bikes and human shapes, indistinct in the darkened roadways, converged.But sundown was a gift," .