I???ve been to Cerro de Andevalo, Almonaster de Real, Moguer and Huelva City, been treated to a wonderful and intimate pena featuring the kind of fandango for which the area is both responsible and justly proud, experienced Cante Jondo in a Pena so seeped with tradition and excellence that its very walls resonated with the art, seen places of staggering beauty such as the shrines of Trinidad and E