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  • At L'Agape, young chef Betrand Grebault comes fresh from Arpege, Alain Passard's staggeringly expensive Left Bank power table, and if his training is evident in such dishes as green asparagus wrapped in fine ribbons of lardo di colonatta (a starter), a few days later, I remembered almost nothing else about the meal aside from the fact that it was blood-curdling expensive.
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