One day in 1986, Chloe Aridjis was wandering through the food section of the grand KaDeWe department store in Berlin when she was overcome by a wave of disgust. ???There were huge fish and lobster tanks; all kinds of meats and animal parts dangling from the walls,??? the writer now recalls. ???The previous year in Seville my sister and I passed a restaurant with a suckling pig in the window, an ap